Today we drove the legendary Ring of Kerry plus the Skellig Ring. At least the major part with some improvisation in the end. There is an excellent guide available at https://www.theirishroadtrip.com/ring-of-kerry-drive/ which pretty much cover everything you need to know about Ring of Kerry. The road condition is mostly very good. Parking can be an issue in some of the villages as well as on some viewing spots.
A bit of driving along the Ring of Kerry, to give you a taste of weather it’s like
We started the day with breakfast in the city center. The breakfast restaurant at the hotel was far to noisy for our taste. But Petit Delice compensated for that and is well worth a visit.
Breakfast at Petit DeliceA stranded boatPanoramic view from Templenoe pierBallinskelligs castleLocal wildlifeThere are lots of scenic views along the Ring of KerryRoof down and the bags left at the hotelA small car among high mountainsPortmagee
We struggled a bit to find somewhere to eat. In Portmagee we couldn’t find a parking space. On Valentina Island, most places were closed. But we found a small café in Knight’s Town that served excellent sandwiches.
Knight’s Town at Valentina IslandLunchThe ferry from Knight’s Town
After we departed the ferry, we decided to take a different route back to Killarney. Instead of following the Ring of Kerry along the coast. We decided to go for the mountains and drive along L4010.
Along L4010
After returning to Killarney, the cars got a much needed wash. We then went shopping in the city and had dinner at Murphys.
Some nice flowers outside the hotelBurger tonight
We drove approximately 195 km today. Tomorrow we’ll head north to the Cliffs of Moher.
We drove south from Cork to Baltimore Beacon. From there we continued to Mizen Head. On the way, we stopped at Altar. We got a bit odd lunch at the Mizen Head visitor center, melted tuna with crisps!
Morning walk in CobhBaltimore BeaconThe lighthouse at Sherkin Island across the straitSailing boat passing Baltimore Beacon Altar Wedge TombChrystal clear waterMelted tuna with crisps… A bit odd by swedish standards
The scenery was stunning with the high cliffs and the Atlantic ocean. Well worth a visit plus you get a bit of exercise in the process.
Mizen HeadHeather
On the route towards the hotel in Killarney we past the highest situated pub in Ireland. We didn’t stop there, which we probably should have done. Given that we’ve previously have been at Tan Hill Inn, which is the highest situated pub in England. The road was narrow and in a poor state to say the least with grass growing in the middle.
You don’t want to meet a white van up here!Some nice scenery thoughThe route across the pass
After checking in at the hotel, we took a walk to the city center. The where a lot of people but after a few attempts we found a restaurant.
The day started with more rain in Dublin. After breakfast, we first drove to a petrol station to top up the other car in our little group of two. Having had enough of Dublin traffic yesterday, we decided to use the ring road around Dublin. Despite being a toll road, it was worth every cent. One just have to remember to login online and pay the toll within 24 hours.
We had picked a couple of places to visit on the way south. First out was Wicklow Mountains National Park with Sally gap and Wicklow gap. Plus, there is a visitor center near Wicklow gap where you can walk along two lakes. We had a lovely lunch there as well.
The next stop was the Vee pass in Tipperary. By then the sun hade come back and the soft top went down.We arrived to the hotel near Cork at 19:00. We drove 339 km today on some really nice roads. Mixed with some highways as well.
It rained when we left DublinIt rained when we drove into Wicklow Mountains National Park Lough tay Warning signIt was very foggy at Wicklow Gap in the morning hoursUpper lakeCottage pieView at Wicklow gap later today
The clouds blowing through the passWicklow pass
The road up towards the Vee passView from the Vee passSteep road in CobhThe Commodore hotelThe beach walk in CobhWe had a lovely dinner at the QuaysScallopsRavioli Local brew, Murphy’sWe drove 339 km today
We finally arrived to Ireland around lunch time today. It was smooth sailing from Holyhead with not much traffic on Anglesey. Once in Dublin, we drove to the hotel in order to drop the bags. Despite telling the GPS app to avoid toll roads, it led us to a tunnel through the city with a toll. It’s always a challenge to pay when driving a sports cars. Since the machines are made for much higher vehicles. And when you are in a country with left hand drive, it adds to the complexity. Either the passenger will have to try to operate the machine. Or the driver has to get out of the car and run to the other side, pay, and get back in.
The bridge to AngelseyVery little traffic on the way to HolyheadWaiting in the harbourHolyhead harbourBreakfast on the boatA guardian angel on the boatDublin harbourToll road in Dublin
The plan was then to drive back into Dublin for some sightseeing. But the hotel rooms were almost ready. So, we had some cappuccino while waiting. The hotel is nicely situated next to the beach. It was a bit too windy today for a swim. The hotel rooms seems to be newly renovated and the staff is very friendly. So thumbs up for White Sands Hotel.
White Sands hotelReally good cappuccino at hotelHotel roomThe beach next to the hotel
Once we got the rooms, we drove into the city center of Dublin. This was as tiring as expected. Sports cars and city traffic isn’t a great combination. We managed to get into a parking garage without scratching any rims or break any front spoilers. We had lunch at the Bull & Castle. A nice enough restaurant near the castle.
Traffic was very slow at the bestA really good Caesar sallad at the Bull & Castle
Although the weather was better than the forecast, there was still a light drizzle. We walked around parts of the city center. But most sights closed at 17:00. So, we only looked from the outside at the castle and S:t Patricks cathedral. The traffic was an absolute nightmare in the evening.
Dublin castleDublin castleStatue of FortitudeStatue of JusticeS:t Patricks cathedral at a funny angle Mr Guiness himselfSpanish DaggerRiver Liffey
Once we got back to the hotel, we found out that there was some sort of football event going on and the pub was full of people watching on the screens. This was not an option for us. So, we went for a walk only to realize that the nearby restaurants all closed at 21:00 during the week. We end a rather miserable day with tea and some candies at the hotel room. Let’s hope that tomorrow will be better.
Day 3 was a stark contrast to the day before. We woke up in a sunny Harwich. We had a first breakfast on the boat and a second one at Costa while planning the more exact route. We can report that the tarmac on the road out of Harwich has been redone. Huge improvement compared to the previous off-road track we’ve seen there before. We set out to drive across England and into Wales and the village of Bala. There we planned to have lunch. After that, we took aim at Snowdonia national park. The drive went well with not to much traffic.
We first visited Wales back in 2019. That’s when we started to write this blog. We were amazed by Snowdonia already then. And the area delivered some stunning views and roads this time as well. In total, we drove 507 km today. All of which with the soft top folded.
Tonight we are staying at a combined pub and hotel. Black Boy Inn in Caernafon. The hotel is situated inside the city walls.
Early morning in Harwich A beautiful sailing boat in the harbour Second breakfast at Costa in Harwich. A good alternative to the breakfast on the boat60 mph/97 km/h road in England…Less traffic compared to yesterday
B4391 between Penybontfawr and LlangynogRoad B4391 is worth a detourB4391ThistleOld school house in BalaLunch at Y Cyfnod in Bala, the food was better that the serviceThe local petrol station in Bala, on the High streetSnowdoniaOn the road down to CaernarfonWelcome to CaernarfonThe hotelNice hotel room on the top floor Everything except the pubs were closed when we arrived We only got to see the castle from the outside Local wildlife Nice ironworkLow tideBeach walkVictoria dock, the local harbourDinner at Angleseye arms, a dry piece of swordfishToday’s drive, 507 kmWe took the route across Snowdonia instead of driving around the national park. Well worth the extra time
The longest day, 903 km and almost 12 hours on the road. One stop for lunch and a couple to refill the tank. We planned the transfer through Germany on a Sunday to get less traffic. Very few lorries on the roads on Sundays in Germany. But, there were still a lot of road works and queues. The Hamburg area is notorious for queues. We took a little de-tour outside Bad Schwartau to avoid one of the road works. This took us through some pretty little villages.
Öresundsbron, between Malmö and Copenhagen Farø bridgeCar däck on the ferry between Rødby and Puttgarden The sun was shining in RødbyHeiligenhafenThe road from Puttgarden, lots of road works for the tunnel that is under constructionFound a nice country road outside Bad SchwartauCurry wurst as lunchStauThe rain was pouring down in Hoek van HollandA very long corridor on the boatAperol Spritz in the Riva barToday’s driving through Sweden, Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands
First day of our trip to Ireland. This time we are three people in two cars. Us in our Mazda MX-5 and one friend in his Lotus Elise. Today we covered most of the transfer through Sweden, from Stockholm to Lund. In all 638 km, about of which half of it on highways. It’s been raining a lot, so the softtop stayed up all day. This year we’ve added a luggage rack and an extra bag. We’ve also fitted some other wheels on the car. With tires that cope better with rain.
The extra bag fitted on the luggage rack and ready to go
Near Norrköping we found another Mazda Miata. It kept us company for a while.
Another Miata on the roadKroatorpet in Huskvarna
We met with our travel companion just north of Huskvarna. We stopped there for a light lunch. Due to the weather We ate the lunch inside. But it’s a pretty little wooden house that has been converted to a coffe shop and restaurant.
Easy to spot a yellow Elise
Rain was the theme of the first dayWe stay over night at a cheap but surprisingly good motel in Lund
After checking in at the motel and washing the cars. We went for a walk in the city center.
Newly washed carsEmpty streets in the Summer. All students are away Statue at BantorgetRed roseHollyhockPlaque of an old monastryGnocchetti all’arrabbiata at GattostrettoToday’s drive from Stockholm to Lund
The planning for 2024 has been in the making since the Autumn. Hotels and ferries were booked between Christmas and New Year. On July 6th we’ll head off towards Ireland and Isle of Man. This year it’s us in the MX-5 and our friend in a Lotus Elise.
AI interpretation of our car along the Atlantic road…
We plan to drive approx 5,886 km during 18 days. Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Netherlands, UK, Ireland and Isle of Man. Stay tuned and there will be daily updates when we get going (subject to internet access).
Back home and time to clean the car, doing the laundry and summarize this years grand tour. First the accounting, we spent in total 18.562 SEK on the hotels, 14.300 SEK on ferries and bridges. Plus 8.472 SEK on fuel. Meals and drinks not included, nor entrance fees to castles and museums.
The car, we sold the F-Type we used in Italy last year. Instead, we bought a brand new Mazda MX-5. The car has performed well during this tour. We drive in total 5.645 km, with an avarage fuel consumption of 0,64 litre/10 km. We’d bought a set of bags designed fir the car. Apart from looking great (matching the colour stitching of the interior), they worked well. We managed to fit cloathing, shoes and toilett gear for 14 days into the three bags. There were still room to fit our jackets and a couple of bottles of gin in the boot. Any longer, or in need of more gear, we would have to add a luggage rack and an additional bag. The only glitches has been two cases of warning that the BSM system isn’t working. But they went away as soon as they appeared. Apple Car Play has been working flawless, despite reading about others having issues with it. We drove most of the Autobahn with the softtop up. The noice level is significantly higher than in the Jaguar. But on the other hand, the car is much lighter.
Our Mazda MX-5
Ferries and bridges, we had pre-booked the Öresund bridge as well as the Rødby-Puttgarden ferry via Scandlines. We’ve used thus route many times in the past. It worked out very smoothly this time as well. The brudge use number plate recognition. So, you just have to drive up to one of the gates, the light turn green and you can drive through. Fir the ferry, you have to scan the bar code on your booking confirmation. The machine is too high up if you sit in a sports car. But luckily, the lane is wide enough to allow you to get out of the car and operate the machine. On the way out, we got on an earlier ferry than booked. On the way back, we had the oposite.
The ferry between Rødby and Puttgarden
We had booked the ferry from Amsterdam to Newcastle since that would take us closer to Scotland. But in retrospect this was a mistake. Not only is that ferry much more expensive than the one between Hook van Holland and Harwich. Also, it departs much earlier. So, we had to add another hotel stay in Germany in order to ensure that we would make it in time.
The ferry from Amsterdam
On the way back home, we had booked the ferry between Harwich and Hook van Holland. For some reason the boarding and departure was delayed by an hour. Harwich harbour is a very booring place to spend an evening in.
Harwich harbour
Accomodations, we stayed at the following hotels and B&Bs; Good Morning Hotels in Lund, Sweden. This was just for a nights sleep while in transit. Very simple standard, but clean rooms, friendly staff and to our surprise a bar with outdoor seating. Works well if you just needs somewhere to sleep. Cheap as well at 782 SEK for a twin bed room. Kräuterhotel & Restaurant Heidejäger in Rotenburg, Germany. We booked this one based on location, getting passed Hamburg would ensure that we would catch the ferry from Amsterdam in time. Located just 10 minutes away from the Autobahn, this turned out to be a little gem. We will for sure return if we happen to be in the area. Also, the restaurant was surprisingly good. 1.275 SEK for a twin bed room is very reasonable. Ravelston House in Musselburgh, Scotland. We stayed here for two nights. Musselburgh is well situated for visiting Edinburgh without having to stay in the city itself. It only takes 7 minutes by train to get from Musselburgh to the center of Edinburgh. The hotel only has a few rooms and a well frequented bar. So, the noise level is rather high at times. But the staff is very friendly. There are several restaurants within walking distance. We payed 2.843 SEK for two nights including breakfast and parking. Which is reasonable, albait on the high side given the location. The Caledonian Hotel in Fort William, Scotland. This turned out to be a complete disaster in terms of hotel experience. Very unfriendly staff, both in the reception as well as in the bar and restaurant. Several of them barely spoke english, most of them seem to come from eastern Europe. There were mould in the bathroom, broken hangers, patched up doors, dirty carpets and bedsheets with stains. In the restaurant, which we tried the first evening, we couldn’t order drinks at the table. Instead we had to go to the bar to order. However, the table next to ours got served by the table. Also, they were unable to split the bill. On top of this, it was rather expensive. We payed 4.582 SEK for two nights including breakfast and parking. Which is ridiculous given state of the facilities and the staff. This hotel should be avoided at any cost, even if you would end up sleeping in your car! The Dornie in Dornie, Scotland. What a difference this was, wonderful staff, great food and condition. This is a great place to stay if you plan to explore Isle of Skye. They only have a few rooms, so you better book well in advance. The seafood in the restaurant was excellent. We payed 1.766 SEK for a twin bed room including breakfast and parking. Which is well spent money. We’ll come back to this hotel for sure. Norland Bed & Breakfast in Burghead, Scotland. A charming little B&B not far from Inverness. All you could expect from a traditional B&B. Only downside was that parking was on the road outside. It’s located in a small village and we struggled to find somewhere to have dinner in the evening. The recommended restaurant was full. So, we ended up at a golf course which was ok. But nothing special. We payed 1.230 SEK for one night including breakfast. Which was a fair price. Tan Hill Inn in Richmond, England. This is a place we’ve visited before. But now with new ownership since a couple of years. Still very charming, but in much better condition. Well worth a visit with an outstanding view of the moors. We paid 2.668 SEK for one night including breakfast and parking. But well worth it for the experience. We will for sure come back again. Old Thorn Barn in Hethel, England. The B&B to stay at if you plan to visit the Lotus factory and/or Classic Team Lotus. We’ve been here before and it’s an ok B&B. The rooms are not that well insulated and you can hear noices from outside as well as from the other rooms. We payed 1.190 SEK for a twin bed room including breakfast and parking. Which is reasonable. Clarion Hotel Sea U in Helsingborg, Sweden. This is a new hotel in the city center. Parking in the basement, skybar at the roof and rooftop pool. We arrived late, so didn’t have a chance to use any of the facilities. Well located if you want to explore Helsingborg and the surrounding areas. We paid 2.223 SEK for a twin bedroom including breakfast. Parking was another 230 SEK.
The Dornie
Tan Hill Inn
Old Thorn BarnClarion Hotel Sea-U
Things to do, we had a rough plan of things to do. But subject to change and the weather. We were four people in total, so we updated the plans every evening over a pint or two. We started off by visiting Lindisfarne and the Holy island. The road there is spectacular since you can only drive there during low tide. But the monastery ruins and the village is more of antourist trap. We Wouldn’t recommend it. Next stop was Edinburgh, it turned out that we weren’t alone there. In the end, we skipped getting into the castle due to long ques ourside. Instead we visited the National Gallery of Scotland and the National Museum of Scotland. The gallery was nice and well worth a visit. The National Museum was just very confusing with a mix of new and old items. We will most likely not come back to Edinburgh, to many tourists for our taste. Next off was Sterling Castle, an important place in the Scottish history. Worth a visit if you are interested in history. Also, great views from the top. On the way to the west coast, we took the oportunity to drive the so called Skyfall road. It’s a single track road and the surface is very bad on some parts. If you are a die-hard James Bond fan, you should do it. If not, skip it and just watch the movie again at home. Isle of Mull was the next port of call. Starting off in a rainy Fort William, things only got better. Some very nice views and single track roads took us all the way to Fionnphort. We had a nice lunch at a local pub before driving back. The roads where in a very good condition. You just have to watch out for the sheeps that walk free. Isle of Skye, the weather forecast indicated heavy rain. But when we drove over the bridge, it was partly blue skies. There are a lot of things to see and experience on Isle of Skye. In particular if you are into hiking. We only had one day there to spend. So, we opted to drive to the Neist Point lighthouse. The last part of the road is a single track road in very poor condition. There are a lot of potholes to watch out for. Plus, a lot of visitors that aren’t necessary used to single track road. Once you reach Nest Point, the veiws are breathtaking. It’s a bit of a walk to reach the lighthouse. But it’s worth it. The next day we drove north and stopped at Urquhart Castle by Loch Ness. You need to book a time online to get access. Not much remains of the castle. But it’s a nice location next to Loch Ness. A day later and we found ourself in a little village on the east coast. The former fishing village of Staithes is well worth a visit. The one thing we had prebooked since long ago was a factory tour at Lotus cars in Hethel. This is a must if you are into British sports cars. Next door you’ll also find Classic Team Lotus who maintain classic Lotus racing cars.
The road to Holy island Haggis in Edinburgh
Stirling Castle
Isle of Mull
Neist Point lighthouse
Urquhart Castle
Staithes
Lotus cars in Hethel
Conclusion, we’ve long been planning to visit Scotland. So, we are glad that we’ve now been there. Realizing that there are much more to experience, we’ll likely vome back at some point. We hope that you enjoyed reading our blog. We will update it once we have new plans and experiences to share. Planning for us normally takes place in October-November for next year. Meanwhile, take a look at the blog entries from last September when we where in Italy. Also, there is an even older blog from 2019 when we visited Wales.
Last stint of this years grand tour. Helsingborg to our home in Åkersberga, with a lunch break in Vadstena. During the weekend, we’ll make a summary of the tour including cost, highlights and lowlights.
E4 heading north
It only gets exciting once you reach lake Vättern
We caught up with another machine grey MX-5 just north of Gränna. A nice change from all SUVs that clog the roads these days
We decided to take a slight detour to the city of Vadstena for lunch. This included a stop at the former monastery at Alvastra. It dates back to 1143. It was closed in 1527 because of the reformation. But you can still see some remains from the old buildings.
After visiting Alvastra and driving the road around Omberg, we headed towards Vadstena.
The castle in Vadstena
Beautiful wooden boat
Shrimp toast
Detail on old warehouse
In the interest of getting home before the shops close, we once more took to the highway. The E4 is very boring, but efficient if you want to cover miles in Sweden.
Coming in hot, passing fighter town aka Linköping
When we got closer to Stockholm, the rain started to pour down again
Today we drove the last 607 km to get back home. The next post will contain a summary of the 2023 tour.