Last stint of this years grand tour. Helsingborg to our home in Åkersberga, with a lunch break in Vadstena. During the weekend, we’ll make a summary of the tour including cost, highlights and lowlights.
E4 heading north
It only gets exciting once you reach lake Vättern
We caught up with another machine grey MX-5 just north of Gränna. A nice change from all SUVs that clog the roads these days
We decided to take a slight detour to the city of Vadstena for lunch. This included a stop at the former monastery at Alvastra. It dates back to 1143. It was closed in 1527 because of the reformation. But you can still see some remains from the old buildings.
After visiting Alvastra and driving the road around Omberg, we headed towards Vadstena.
The castle in Vadstena
Beautiful wooden boat
Shrimp toast
Detail on old warehouse
In the interest of getting home before the shops close, we once more took to the highway. The E4 is very boring, but efficient if you want to cover miles in Sweden.
Coming in hot, passing fighter town aka Linköping
When we got closer to Stockholm, the rain started to pour down again
Today we drove the last 607 km to get back home. The next post will contain a summary of the 2023 tour.
Long transfer today, from Hook van Holland to Helsingborg. All in all a very uneventful day, but with some annoying delays and lack of food. The ferry arrived to Hook van Holland in the early morning with planned disembarking at 08:00. There was however a delay in getting off the ferry. Further delays led to it taking us more than one hour to get off the boat and passed the passport control! This took away any margin we had to the ferry between Puttgarden and Rødby. We had however booked an open ticket so that we could take another ferry. Subject to free spaces of course.
Lots of cabins on the ferry
Breakfast on the go at a service station in Holland
Currywurst for lunch at a german service station
A few showers along the way
Several roadworks along A1 with corresponding stau ment that we only managed to get on a ferry from Puttgarden at 17:45. We finally reached the hotel in Helsingborg at 21:30. By which time there were no food available at the hotel. Despite the reception claiming that the roof top bar was open and serving food until 23:00. Turned out that their kitchen closed at 21:00. We took a short walk around the city center but no food were to be found anywhere. So, we ended up getting a bag of crisps, some nuts and Pepsi from the minibar…
The bridge to Fehmarn
Waiting for the next ferry in Puttgarden
Finally some sun when we got to Denmark. So, softtop down from Rødby to Helsingborg
Very dark interior at the hotel room
Clarion Sea-U in Helsingborg
North harbour in Helsingborg
Tonight’s dinner(!)
Today we drove some serious miles, 949 km to be precise. Tomorrow will be the last stint, Helsingborg to Åkersberga (north of Stockholm).
Last day on the island for now. We had a great breakfast at Old Thorn Barn. A pleasent surprise was to find an Emira parked outside. It turned out to be one of Lotus test drivers that just came back from a road test on the continent that had checked in at the B&B. It was great talking to him and get an inside view of the car.
The new Lotus logo
Nice touch with the prototype marking in the same style as the old Esprit logo
Lavender
A Lotus Emira turned up outside the hotel
A very good B&B if you are going to visit the Lotus factory and/or Classic Team Lotus
More lavender
Unfortunately cameras are strictly forbidden at the Lotus factory. Except in the exhibition area. So, no photos from the manufacturing or the parking with finished cars. But the factory tour was interesting. It was our third visit to the factory. This time it was buzzing with activity and we got to see some of the new equipment installed after Geely poured in £££. The Evija production is off limits. So, only the Emira production was shown. After the factory tour, we made a quick visit at Classic Team Lotus for some shopping. Followed by a lunch at Bird in hand in Wreningham.
Lotus Emira V6 and GT4
Lotus Emira GT4
Lunch at the Bird in the Hand
We had an early dinner in Harwich since the food on the ferry tend to be less good.
View from the Pier hotel and restaurant
Shrimp cocktail
Lightship
Lightship
Waiting at the check-in in Harwich
Today we drove 110 km. Tomorrow we’ll wake up in Holland and head for Sweden.
After breakfast at a rainy Tan Hill Inn we drove eastwards. We considered going to York and the viking museum. But it turned out that you had to pre-book online and there were only time slots available after 16:00. Which was way to late for us. So, instead we set our sights at Staithes on the east coast. It looked pretty online when it showed up among things to do in Yorkshire.
Rainy morning on the moor
Rabbit lamp
Breakfast at Tan Hill Inn (you could get a full english breakfast)
Cosy fire in the morning
The road towards Langthwaite
Staithes was once one of the largest fishing ports in the North East. At the turn of the 20th century, there were 80 full-time fishing boats putting out from Staithes. At least according to Wikipedia. Now it’s turned to tourism instead with several hotels and restaurants. However, the village gave a run down impression. But it’s worth visiting if you happens to be in the area. We had lunch at the Royal George.
Approaching the coast
Car park above the village
As usual, height doesn’t translate well into photos. But Staithes is built on the steep slopes towards the sea
Low tide
Rescue boat
Sea gulls nesting on the cliffs
Rocky beach at low tide
Video clip of sea gulls
Lunch, a rather dry seafood burger
We then drove on mostly dual carriageways and motorways towards Norwich. It was raining heavily during part of the drive. So, the softtop stayed up all day. We drove 517 km today. Tomorrow we’ll visit the Lotus factory.
Last day in Scotland, going south. We left Lossiemouth after a nice breakfast at Norland B&B. The destination for today was Tan Hill Inn in the Pennines. So, quite a distance to drive today. We didn’t plan any other activities today because of this. But we had received recommendations for some roads through Cairngorms National Park.
The Lossiemouth lighthouse
We headed towards Cairngorms National Park and found B9008 and A939. Both turned out to be brilliant roads for sports cars. Unfortunately there were some caravans and mobile homes there as well.
We had lunch at Taste Perthshire. It was ok for being a service station type of establishment. We both had haggis before leaving Scotland. But I must admit that the one I had in Edinburgh was much better.
After lunch, we drove on more dual carrageways in order to get to our destination in reasonable time. We stopped in Penrith to fill up the tank before driving into the Pennines. We’ve visited Tan Hill Inn before, back in 2016. Since then there have new owners who are renovating the facilities. The room we got was really nice with views over the moor. Tan Hill Inn is famous for being the highest situated pub in England. It used to be a mining district, but now only the pub remains.
The road towards Tan Hill Inn
Onglet steak
Today we drove 532 km. A mix between single track roads (again) and dual carriageways. Tomorrow we’ll be driving to Norwich on the east coast.
Today the wheater was very gloomy. Rain, grey skies and 15 degree Celsius. We decided to stop and take a look at Urqhart Castle. However, it turned out that you had to book tickets online for a free slot. So, we had to kill off some time in nearby Drumnadrochit.
Erik had stayed at another hotel and met up before our departure
It was raining most of the drive from Dornie
Low clouds over the mountains
Urqhart castle dates back to at least the 1200s. However, it has been in ruins since 1692.
Model of the castle as it may have looked like
The dungeon for those that had been naughty
We then stopped for lunch in Inverness. By then it started to rain again. So, we didn’t walk around the city as planned. After eating lunch at the White house, we went on to fill up the car and drive to the B&B for the night. We did consider visiting Fort Georg. But the rain didn’t encourage outdoor activities.
Today we only drove 192 km. But tomorrow we’ll be heading south to Tan Hill Inn. That will be a full day of driving. We plan to stay away from the motorways. But this would partly depend on when we get started. Partly on the weather.
Today we started from a rainy Fort William. There was even a yellow warning because of heavy rain. We were glad to get out of the rat hole called The Caledonian Hotel. It is to be avoided at any cost, you’ll be better off sleeping in your car!
Rainy Fort William
The first stop was the Commando Memorial, just outside of Fort William. It’s dedicated to the british commandos who fought and died in the second world war.
Memorial for the Commandos
The target for today’s drive was the Neist Point lighthouse, on the western tip of the Isle of Skye. This took us through parts of the Highlands. There were some nice roads and views, despite the weather.
Eilean Donan Castle
Seaweed on the beach in Dornie
Skye bridge
The last couple of miles to Neist Point was single track road. The road condition was horrible with lots of potholes. Plus sheeps to look out for on and beside the road. But the view from the point was breathtaking. Just as we made our way back from the lighthouse, the rain started to pick up.
Parking with a view at Neist Point
The lighthouse at Neist Point
After we’d climbed back to the car park, it was well beyond lunch time. So, we headed towards Portree. By then the rain was pouring down. Most restaurants had stopped serving lunch by the time we got there. But we found a café and treated ourself with some belgian waffles. We also bought a bottle of local gin from Misty Isle Gins.
The hotel for this night is The Dornie in Dornie. This is in a different league compared to the hotel in Fort William. Nice and clean rooms, friendly staff as a start. We decided to have dinner at the hotel. Dornie is a very small village and there are few other alternatives. The dinner and service was excellent! We had seafood plates and langustines respectively. Followed by icecream with chocolate or cheese plate. After this we took a late evening walk to the nearby Eilean Donan Castle. Tomorrow we’ll drive to Inverness via Loch Ness.
When we started planning this tour last Autumn, we considered taking a train ride. With the Jacobite Steam Train. But after looking at the fairs, we skipped this. Instead we decided that there must be something else to do in this region. Then we sort of forgot about the day we had available in Fort William. Last night we spent some time in the bar trying to make ourself heard while there was some local singer performing in the background. Based on the weather forecast, we concluded that Ben Nevis out of the question. Also, the whiskey distillery in Oban was fully booked. So, we opted to do some more driving. This time out on one of the nearby islands.
Nether Lochaber terminal
Waiting for the first ferry of the day
It rained during the ferry trip
We settled for Isle of Mull and specifically Fionnphort. Which is as far you can get on that island. It was good that we practiced on driving at single track roads yesterday. Because today we drove approx 321 km of which 280 km where single track. So, we are getting the hang of it. A884 was nice to drive through the mountains before reaching Lochaline and the second ferry.
A861 near Clovullin
In the distance some of the mountains we drove past yesterday
A861 has at least partly two lanes
A884 quickly becomes a single track road
This is a 60 mph (97 km/h) road in Scotland!
Lochaline ferry terminal
Waiting to get onboard the second ferry
Once on Mull, the landscape started to shift. There are still forrests as well as open fields on higher ground. But also more villages along the shoreline. And you start to get the feeling that you are actually on an island near the Atlantic ocean. Today it was rainy but almost no wind. But we could only assume that this can be a very harsh place during Winter months.
It’s not every day you get manual service these days!
The pumps had seen better days, but the man that came out and filled up our cars were friendly enough
Eventually we reached Fionnphort. We decided to have lunch there. There is a small shed by the ferry terminal that sells seafood. But we opted for the pub instead, the Keel Row. Good food and friendly staff. Three of us had fish’n’chips and one went for a burger. Across the straight lies another island, Iona. But beyond that you’ll find the Atlantic ocean.
The Keel Row
Sheep run free on the roads
On the way back, we decided to take another route once we were back on A861. We drove westward until we reached A830. Both the A861 (partly single track) and A830 offer some really fun driving. Once we got back to Fort William, we had dinner at a pub in the city. Tomorrow we’ll drive to Isle of Skye.
Today we drove west via Sterling and Glen Etive to Fort William. But first we had to find a jet wash in Musselburgh. It’s a coastal town with a lot of seagulls. They seem to have a grudge against sports cars. But luckily the nearest petrol station had a jet wash where we could clean up the mess!
Cleaning cars after the local seagulls did their busines
Once the cars were clean, we headed towards Sterling and the castle there. The GPS did show us one direction and the signs another one. For once it turned out that the GPS was right! There were quite a lot of tourists there. So, it took some time to get to the parking area. But once there, it was very well organized. The castle is in good condition and has clearly been restored recently. We’ve read about Sterling castle and also watched several programs on Historyhit and Youtube. It was interesting to finally visit it. One thing we missed when comparing to other castles we’ve been to is the furniture and decorations. There is very limited amounts of furniture inside the rooms. But nevertheless it’s worth a visit if you are interested in history.
Stirling castle
One of several very enthusiastic guides
Some serious wood carvings
Graveyard next to the castle
Construction of medieval roofs
After the visit to Sterling castle, we drove a couple of kilometers to the Wallace monument. It was built during the 19th century in honour to William Wallace, also known as Braveheart. We didn’t go inside the tower, but the view from outside is great. You also get a good view of Sterling castle across the valley. After walking up and fown the hill, we had lunch at the visitor center.
Wallace monument from below
Lady’s mantle
One of the wooden sculptures along the footpath up to the monument
The tower stands 67 meters high
Stirling castle seen from Wallace monument
Lunch at the visitor center
The next stop was Glencoe Mountain Resort. Here we met up with the other two in our little group. Time for a cup of coffee and some apple pie.
With did get some rain. So, the soft top stayed up
Coffee break
Then it was time to drive on the famous Glen Etive road. Also known as Skyfall road. This is were the well known scene in the Bond movie Skyfall was shot. Where Bond and M returns to his childhood home. We didn’t manage to find the exact location where Bond parked his DB5. But the scenery is stunningly beautiful. It’s a single track road with pockets for overtaking. Most other cars managed to handle this. But we did encounter a Karen in a Kia who simply refused to reverse to the pocket just behind her. The road is approx 19 km and ends at Loch Etive. There is a small car park. Then you have to drive back on the same road again. It’s well worth it for the scenery.
Skyfall road
The last part of the drive to Fort William also came with some great views of the highlands. The hotel however turned out to be a disapointment. But more about that tomorrow.
Today we took the train to Edinburgh. It’s a 7 minute journey from Musselburgh to the ciry center. The weather forecast had indicated some heavy showers. So, we came prepared with both umbrellas and waterproof jackets. But we only had a couple of very brief ones. Which could be managed by jumping into the nearest shop.
A cute little train at the stationIt’s very convenient and cheap to use the local train service. The downside is that there is only one train per hourScott monumentPrinces street gardenMemorial to scotch soldiers that have lost their lives in various warsMemorial for the scotch soldiers that lost their lives while liberating the FalklandsThe Ross fountain
As we had expected there were a lot of tourist in Edinburgh this time of the year. So much so that we skipped visiting the castle. We left the old town and went to visit the National Gallery instead. There is a very impressive collection of paintings and some statues. Well worth a visit.
We had lunch at Whiski Rooms & Bar. This is also well worth a visit. We went for haggis with Ardbeg and chicken breast with Glenmorangie respectively. It was delicious, and something we will try at home. Maybe not making haggis, but the chicken dish in combinstion with whiskey. They also arrange various whiskey tastings. But that will have to wait for another time.
Haggis served with a glas of Ardbeg UigeadailChicken with Glenmorangie
We paid a visit to National Museum of Scotland after the lunch. It’s a modern exhibition and by such, a bit confusing. Mixing artifacts from the Picts with rockets and planes, china, steam engines, motorcycles and rocking chairs. Maybe it makes sense if you visit multiple times or attend a guided tour.
Some F1 cars on displayFindings from the mythical PictsJames Watt, or at least a statue of himCopy of the tomb of Mary Queen of Scots
Now we are back at the hotel in Musselburgh. Waiting for the other two guys to return and hear about their experiences of the day.
Tomorrow we’ll head on to Fort William. Via Sterling castle and Loch Etive for that James Bond moment.